I’m Coming To Birmingham, Alabama- Dog Training

Birmingham, Alabama Dog Training

I wanted to write a quick post to let you folks know that I’ll be coming to Birmingham, Alabama in May of 2013 during the week of May 6th.  I’m honored to be invited by Rick Clark of The Barking Zone.  Rick has come up with some interesting and unique ways of running his dog daycares and even offers Dog Daycare Franchises for those looking to get into the industry.

Rick and I have gotten to know each other over the years as he has been studying from my dog training DVD’s and we’ve talked about dog behavior and training.  I even had the privilege to interview Rick about his business for my marketing radio show for pet business owners. 

I’m excited now to be able to come down to his neck of the woods and work with him on his dog training goals but to also work with the dog owners from Birmingham and the surrounding areas on their most pressing dog training issues.

While I’m in Birmingham we’re going to be setting up group sessions and private sessions for local dog owners.  Space will be very limited.  For those interested please contact us to let us know of your interest and we will update you on availabilities, pricing, schedules, etc.

Use this link to contact us.

Birmingham, Alabama Dog Training Invitation

 

Dog Training Birmingham, Alabama 

Birmingham, Alabama Dog Training- Courses

I’ve become known over the years for standing out with various skills.  If you are in need of help in one of these areas I invite you to contact us for more information:

  • Puppy training- If you can avoid various pitfalls with raising your puppy the chances are far better you’ll end up with the perfect adult dog.  The majority of the behavior problems we deal with at our training company could have been avoided with doing things right from the beginning with a puppy.
  • Fixing dog aggression- I’ve really been able to make a name for myself with fixing dog aggression.  I’ve traveled the U.S. and to various other countries to work through aggression problems with numerous clients.
  • Big time behavior modification- If you’re dealing with big issues like destruction, separation anxiety, etc. I can help you.
  • Advanced off leash obedience- I have a unique and proprietary system for using an e-collar in a humane fashion to quickly train reliable and high level obedience training.

I invite you to come out and enjoy a workshop, private session, etc.  Contact us for more information!

Dog Training Interview With Renowned Trainer, Chad Mackin

Dog Training- Chad Mackin

I’ve been hanging out on a forum recently where I’ve been speaking with dog training expert, Chad Mackin, of Pack To Basics and DePaw University Canine Campus Inc. in Illinois.  I noticed that Chad kept using a term that I hadn’t heard in the dog industry and I wanted to get his take on it.

He kept talking about ‘adrenalized dogs’, ‘dogs in an adrenalized state’, and other terms relating to adrenaline.

Now, I know what adrenaline is, but I hadn’t thought of it’s relation to dog training and dog behavior.  I decided to invite him onto the podcast and he was kind enough to lend me a half hour of his life to explain these terms and how they can benefit the every-day dog owner.

Dog Training- What Will You Learn In This Podcast?

  • Learn how you can tell from your dog’s eyes if he is in an adrenalized state and what that means.
  • Learn to decipher body positions in order to understand what condition your dog is currently in.
  • Find out two KEY DOG TRAINING commands that are easy to do but can help just about any dog lead a happier life.
  • Understand the definition of what an ‘adrenalized dog’ is and if your dog falls into that category.
  • Uncover techniques that you can use that can actually teach your dog to self-regulate whether you are home or not.  (Dealing with destruction or other inappropriate behaviors while you are gone?  You NEED to listen to this.)
  • Discover what is at the root cause of your dog being happy or not and how you can help your pet achieve happiness and satisfaction every day.
  • You’ll learn the right way and the wrong way to properly socialize a dog (he talks about play groups, dog parks, day cares and more.  Hint: some of these are great and others can do serious damage to a dog’s mental state).

Overall, this is just under a half hour of a podcast jam-packed with information and tips for dog training, fixing dog destruction, fixing anti-social behaviors, aggression, and more.

If you’re dealing with any of these issues I recommend you listen with a pen and paper because you will definitely walk away with a few critical changes that you can start making today in order to see more success with your dog tomorrow.

Dog Training- Listen to the Podcast Below

Press play below to listen in.  Enjoy!

Dog Fear- Where Does It Come From?

Dog Fear- Reader Question

The following question comes from a reader of our site:

Why are some dogs just flat out scared of men?  I have a 2 year old husky and he’s scared of men.  I don’t believe there’s any history of abuse.   He’ll run away or refuses to come to men and paces back and forth frustrated.
Rachel, Utah.

Thanks for this question, Rachel.  Dog fear is one of the biggest things I deal with in my company simply because it’s at the root of so many behavior problems.  Issues like dog aggression, some destruction, anxiety behaviors, and others all find their root in fear.  In order to solve these issues it’s important to understand where these issues come from.

Dog Fear- What Causes It?

The reality is that there are only two places that dog fear comes from:

  1. Genetics
  2. Upbringing

It’s the old Nature Vs. Nurture argument that has been waging in the halls of academia forever.  In fact, I find it unfortunate that many people these days are ignoring the science when it comes to dog behavior.

These days you don’t have to go far to find certain ‘breed apologists’.  Just log on to your Facebook account and you’ll see your dog loving friends posting graphics about how awesome Pit Bulls are and how any aggressive Pit Bull is simply that way because the owner trained it to be that way.

This type of thinking completely ignores basic tenets of dog behavior.

Nearly everyone will agree that both nature and nurture compose the makeup behind temperament, personality, and character.  Yet in the case of Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, German Shepherds, Dobermans, etc. people suspend this understanding in their attempts to protect their favorite breed.

Now, let me set the record straight first of all.  I’m a big fan of Pit Bulls, Rottweilers (I own one), German Shepherds (I’ve owned a few) and Dobermans.  And I’m not trying to tell you that ANY of these BREEDS are more prone to fear, aggression, or any other sort of behavior.  But I will tell you that certain representatives of those breeds (and ALL breeds for that matter) can have larger propensities than others for fear, aggression, and other related behaviors.

I know I’m on my soapbox right now.  You may be wondering why I’m off on a tangent about Pit Bulls and other powerful breeds when the question was about a Husky and fear.  The reason is that people seem to be willing to accept that fear can cause bad behavior, and many of those same people are willing to accept that a Husky or a Beagle or a Labrador MAY have been born with a greater propensity for fear and that MAY be why they are acting inappropriately.  But many of those same people are unwilling to accept that a Pit Bull was born with a fear issue and that is why she is acting aggressively…they seem bound and determined to blame aggression in these powerful breeds on bad owners.

This is a damaging style of thinking, though.  Many of our clients own these breeds and we deal with a lot of aggression.  Based on what these folks have heard many are convinced that they are awful owners and somehow ‘trained’ their Pit Bull or Rottweiler to be aggressive.  The reality is, though, that they’ve been good dog owners (everyone can be better) and they did NOTHING to cause their dog’s fear or aggression.  The dog was born with a greater tendency towards aggressive behavior.

The majority of the dog fear that I see for genetic reasons comes from poor breeding.  Most breeders these days have no clue how to make pairings that will result in mentally sound puppies.  It may be that they are breeding for looks and not temperament, it may be that they are pushing out puppies just to make a buck, or it may be that they are incompetent but these bad breeders have flooded the country with dogs who have weak nervous systems and low thresholds for dealing with stress.  And, unfortunately, it is the public who is supporting their efforts by always looking for the best deal.

As I mentioned, though, genetics are just one piece of the puzzle.

Upbringing is also very important.  When I’m referring to upbringing I’m typically talking about socialization.

Dogs have what I like to call a ‘socialization window’ between about 8 weeks and 6 months of age where it’s important that the dog receives the correct doses of the correct type of socialization.  Errors that lead to the type of fear being described with this Husky typically fall into two categories:

  • Under-socializing.  Dogs need to meet a LOT of people, places, and things.  They need to meet lots of men, women, dogs, cats, children, bicycles, floor surfaces, sounds, textures, etc.  Many dogs simply don’t get a lot of exposure.  As they grow older they fall into the old adage of ‘we fear the unknown’.  It’s possible that your Husky didn’t receive enough exposure to men and now finds the fact that they are bigger, deeper voices, etc. as off-putting and cause for fear.
  • Improper socialization.  I can’t tell you how much dog fear I can trace directly to dog parks.  Dog parks are the worst place to socialize a dog yet they are so often used and they often inject fear into a dog.  Aside from dog parks bad socialization occurs when the owner doesn’t control encounters the young dog has with kids, strangers, etc.  I have had numerous cases where a dog has ONE bad experience with a kid, person, dog, etc. during this socialization window and it taints their whole life experience from that day forward.  In your dog’s case, it’s possible the dog simply was handled roughly by a man at a young age and that’s the experience that stuck.

Dog Fear- How To Solve It

Dog fear comes from what I call a ‘chaos mindset’.  That means that the dog isn’t thinking when she’s reacting fearfully, she’s simply giving in to her surroundings.

The opposite of chaos in the natural world is structure, control, etc.  With our clients we immediately start on a healthy diet of obedience training to overcome these fear issues.  As the dog’s mind learns to focus on structure it can’t also be focusing on the subject of her fear.

Here’s the catch, though.  Treat based obedience training or other such ineffective methods don’t get the job done.  The only way to overcome big-time fear issues is through advanced obedience training and that simply doesn’t occur with treat training.  You need a style of training that properly balances correction with motivation to show the dog that obedience is the rule but it’s also enjoyable.

(Reader Question) How To Stop Dog Aggression

How To Stop Dog Aggression:

The following question came in from one of our readers from our site on how to stop dog aggression:

We have a dog who is mid-size and has always been well behaved.  He’s a border collie mix.  As he has been indoors for more and more time over the winter he has become very protective.  He starts barking at the doorbell and growls when friends or guests want to pet him.

Has even snapped at my brother-in-law after my brother-in-law continued to try to pet him again and again even after being warned with growls again and again.  He turned and snapped and scared all of us.

He even trapped our neighbor in his car… Protecting their home (I was inside their home visiting his wife).

How to Stop Dog Aggression: Three Tips

The following three steps go over my recommendations for how to stop dog aggression in this case.

How to stop dog aggression on youtube 

The three steps I recommend in this case are:

  1. Take care of your handling errors.  You are putting this dog in situations that are not conducive to training success.  Allowing this dog to be pestered and leaving the dog loose in a neighbor’s yard are things that just should not be happening.
  2. Get this dog fulfilled.  You recognized that with more time indoors he has become more aggressive.  It’s important to help him get out some of that pent up energy that is currently being manifest as aggressive behaviors.  I always tell clients that they will get rid of energy faster through the mind than they will through the body.  Get this guy on focused walks, practice ‘integration training’ with him throughout the day, play games like fetch, etc. and that will help to siphon off some of that added energy that is going into negative behavior right now.
  3. Focus heavily on obedience.  When you are looking at how to stop dog aggression you MUST always start with some great obedience.  Obedience training allows you to have options for when the dog is feeling stressed out, anxious, or aggressive.  For example, if you could have him lie down and stay when someone knocks on the door it helps solve the doorbell problem.  Basic obedience isn’t good enough, you really need to work on obedience around distractions.

How to Stop Dog Aggression- Summary

A big majority of our clients come to us trying to figure out how to solve dog aggression.  I find that in nearly all cases it comes down to structure, structure, and more structure.  Structure is nature’s enemy of chaos, aggression, and anxiety.   

How To Fix Dogs That Fight In The Home

How To Fix Dogs That Fight In The Home

The following question comes in from a reader of our site-

Hello Ty,

I have the same question as Brenda did on thatmutt.com. (I wrote this message there a few days ago, also.) How about if its aggression towards another dog within the household? Same method? Or what can i do? I have 3 dogs (littermates) – I will call them Dog #1, #2 and #3 to differentiate them.

We got Dog #1 at 7 weeks of age, Dog #2 at 9 months, Dog #3 at almost 11 months old. Dog #2 and Dog #3 were owned by a person who then decided they didn’t have time for them (first Dog #2, then Dog #3). Those 2 dogs did fight at times and I don’t know the exact conditions they lived in. Dog #1 was neutered at 6 months old, we had Dog #2 and Dog #3 neutered as soon as we got them. Dog #1 gets along fine with both Dog #2 and Dog #3. However, Dog #2 and Dog #3 do not. Dog #2 attacks Dog #3 for no reason (we don’t have them all together now – we alternate keeping either Dog #2 or Dog #3 in a separate room with a gate in the doorway).

We bring Dog #2 on his harness and leash multiple times per day and there are times he can lay quite close to Dog #3 with no problem but you can see/feel him wanting to attack him again. From the time we had them all loose together in the house, we know that Dog #3 does not want to fight but will if he has to. (One time the attack happened under the kitchen table and it took me a little longer to be able to get at Dog #2 enough to pull him off of Dog #3.) I do not want to/will not re-home any of these dogs. I want to do the right thing to get them to get along or if not get along, at least tolerate one another so they can live together.

I never bring them outside together because we have a large fenced in yard and a fight could break out too far of a distance from me. I realize I am lucky that I have not gotten bit when I have pulled Dog #2 off of Dog #3. It just makes no sense – when we did have them all together, they could pass one another in the doorway 9-10 times, then in a split second, the 11th time, Dog #2 would instantaneously attack Dog #3 – no advance warning whatsoever. They will all be a year old at the end of this month (Dec 2012). I have spent countless hours researching on internet for ideas but don’t want to try the wrong thing. I found Ty Brown (you!) and have seen some of his videos and they seem so down to earth and sensible. Any help would be appreciated so very, very much.

The following is my response:

 

 Watch How To Fix Dogs That Are Fighting In The Same House On Youtube

 

Dogs That Fight In The Home- Key Points

  • It all starts with obedience training.  Obedience equals calm and respectful.  As I always say, you aren’t going to fix aggression with basic obedience.  You need advanced obedience.
  • Work on focused walks together.  You should work towards one dog on one side of your body and the other dog on the other side.  Both should be right by your side, no walking ahead, and paying attention to you.
  • You need processes for around the house.  Lots of ‘down stays’, waiting at the door, rules, discipline, etc.
  • Control aspects of their life: doorways, toys, food, etc.
  • More than likely you’ll want to start with dogs on leashes and training collars for a while.  No harnesses.
  • Best of luck!

For dogs with this level of aggression we recommend our curing dog aggression program.

Case Study- Aggressive Dogs and Pet Hotels

This is one of the rescue dogs, aside from the dogs with aggression problems, that we’re working with at the Pet Hotel.

I started working with a new ‘client’ today.  Her name is Andrea and she is the owner of a Pet Hotel here in the town where we’re living, Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica.

Andrea has been a dog lover her whole life.  For a long time she’d been helping out friends with their dogs when they went on vacation.  She told me that she finally got so tired of helping for free that she opened up her Pet Hotel.

I met her at the library recently and found out she is living right down the street from me.

Andrea has two dogs that have to stay next door at her mother’s house because these two dogs are aggressive towards other dogs.  She’s also got a few rescue dogs that she’s essentially adopted that live at the pet hotel and interact with the dogs who come to stay with her.

She’s frustrated because she can’t have her two pit bull mixes around the other dogs and she’s even had situations where these two dogs have attacked other dogs.  We sat down today and I outlined for her the prescription that I want to apply to her and her dogs over the next couple months so we can see some progress.

Here is the plan I laid out for her:

  • We first need to establish some great obedience.  Obedience comes from a calm state of mind and aggression comes from the opposite.  The more we get solid obedience the more we kick out the aggressive state of mind.  Also, obedience leads to solid leadership and a dog that sees it’s owner as a leader is much less likely to be aggressive.
  • Once we’ve established great obedience we need to start applying that obedience to moments where the dogs are likely to be aggressive.
  • I need to show Andrea how to properly correct the dogs when they are acting aggressively.

This is the plan that I set out for her, it’s the same plan I outline in detail in my dog aggression course, and I’ve got years of experience showing that this is going to help her start to see progress with her dog aggression issues very quickly if she does what I lay out for her.

Today we started working on some obedience exercises like proper leash walking and how to stay.

I foresee a few challenges that we’ll have to get over if we’re going to see the progress she wants:

  • These dogs are mostly loose in the yard at her mom’s house.  They don’t get a lot of structure and giving them structure is going to be a challenge.  There is no fence and the dogs are sometimes tied out but sometimes just end up wandering in the jungle and the surrounding neighborhood for hours.
  • The female is the worse of the two dogs and she is very lazy.  What that means is that she doesn’t pull on the leash, doesn’t jump on people, and doesn’t cause too many problems outside of the moments when she’s around other dogs.  It’s my experience that a lot of dogs like her can ‘float under the radar’ a bit.  Because they aren’t causing a hassle, except in specific moments, a lot of owners find themselves less motivated to get out there and work on leash walking and other behaviors.  What is important is that she gets a lot of training, even though it may not feel like she needs it as much.
  • The male is not fixed.  He ends up wandering off their large property and finds himself in trouble.  He’s still young, about a year or so, so I think that getting him fixed could help a bit with fixing his aggression issue.
  • Andrea spends all of her time at the Pet Hotel so leaving the property to go to her mom’s to work with the dogs will be difficult.  I’ve run into this situation many times where the owner isn’t living with the dogs and it can make things very hard.  Luckily, the dogs are only 50 yards away but it still will be a challenge.
  • The female is incredibly dominant.  I pushed on her rear end just a bit to get her to sit when I came to a stop with some leash walking and she was so upset that someone was trying to tell her what to do that she tried to bite me.

Overall, we’ve got some big challenges but I’m hoping for the best.  I’ll keep you posted as the weeks go on.

Food Aggression That Has Become Even Worse

Food Aggression In Dogs- What To Do When It Gets Worse

Hi Ty, I’m concerned for my son and his dog. The problem is, she is growling at people for no apparent reason. She used to only growl when someone would come near her food or a space on the floor, but now she is growling at unpredictable times and for no apparent reason. Her symptoms are she starts by cowering and smacking her lips and then growls. What does this mean and how do we stop it?

Watch the video below and then read the following transcript for ideas on how to solve this type of aggression problem with your dog.

Also, for dog aggression solutions check out our line of DVDs.

Food Aggression- View On YouTube

Food Aggression In Dogs- My Thoughts

Here are my thoughts on your question:

  • Aggression tends to act this way.  Aggression left unchecked tends to get worse.  The reason being is that the dog realizes that aggression solves problems.  In your dog’s case, she started using aggression to protect her food.  As she realized with time that this solution worked she decided to start using it in other areas as well.  Hindsight is always 20/20 but for those of you who are dealing with small aggression issues it’s important to note that your dog’s aggression will not improve, and will likely get worse, unless you are actively working to solve it.
  • To your question, what does this mean?  Without seeing it I’m not too familiar with your description of ‘smacking lips’.  I have seen, however, many dogs kind of open and close their mouth out of anxiety and nervousness.  My guess is that your dog is feeling fearful in these scenarios where she growls.  Dogs, when they feel threatened have three responses available to them: Fight, Flight, and Avoidance.  Your dog is choosing the ‘fight’ response by growling at things that make her afraid.
  • To stop it I see two different and important steps that need to be taken:
  1. You’ve got to establish the right relationship with the dog.  Dogs don’t frequently growl at those who they respect.  I highly doubt that the dog is very respectful of family members.  Respect is best earned through solid obedience.  Teach the dog to walk on a leash properly with no pulling.  Teach the dog to stay when told even with distractions.  Train the dog to come when called even in the face of distractions.  This type of obedience will help you gain that level of respect you need.
  2. Correct the aggression when it happens.  Start having the dog wear a leash and training collar around the house.  When she growls around her food, etc. correct her into a new part of the house, give a simple command like sit (this is to change the dog’s frame of mind) and then praise her for sitting.

Best of luck and happy training.

Dog Aggression Question

The following is a question from one of our valued clients-

I have limited data usage so I have to watch how much I download which is why I haven’t opted to use skype. I have watched the basic foundation videos on line. I am so happy with all of the information presented on this site. Everything Ty Brown says fits with what I feel is true about dog behavior and how to communicate with your dog. In my own case, my 9 month old McNab collie, Maggie, has been very responsive to training. She heels nicely. Sits, stays, down etc. but when she was  around 5 months  old we were lunged at by a pair of dogs–one in front and one behind us– and since then we’ve had 7 occasions where loose dogs have come at us. I have been able to get them to back down by yelling no loudly and whacking a stick on the ground. The problem is that now my dog goes wild whenever she sees another dog on the street loose or not. I did purchase a prong collar and in non threatening situations she responds to just the barest of pressure. Most of the time we are walking with a loose leash with no correction necessary. However,I am now getting very concerned because it seems like she is getting more hysterical each time we encounter a dog on the street. This morning we encountered a loose dog and I had to yell no at it several times before it would turn back. While I am doing this I’m trying to correct Maggie by saying no and getting her to heel. As we continued on our walk today, we encountered two more dogs fortunately they were being walked on leashes. She started shrieking and leaping and the prong collar had little effect. Unwilling to drag on her neck, I finally just picked her up which is no small feat as I am small and she now weighs at least 45 pounds. That calmed her but this is not an effective intervention long term. I am willing to pay for consultation about what to do about her reaction to dogs on the street and also would like your thoughts on how to deal with loose dogs. I called the animal control about the dog that followed us this morning but the reality is that there is always the potential for encountering a loose dog when you walk your dog a mile or two every day. I am 62 and am working very hard to civilize my dog so that I don’t have to worry about her pulling me off my feet as I get older and she gets bigger and stronger. I am so grateful to you for what you are doing to educate people about dog psychology. Recently people have said such stupid things to me about how to address my dogs behavior like, “you should take her to puppy classes or find some dogs for her to play with.” She is fine with other dogs. I have taken her to a farm where there are other dogs and she enjoys playing with them. After being traumatized by loose dogs playing with other dogs will not make her feel (or me, for that matter) safe with dogs she encounters on the street.

My response:

Thanks for your question and kind words.  Yours is the type of experience that I constantly reference to my clients about the importance of proper socialization.  One bad experience can seriously taint your dog’s upbringing.  Unfortunately, in your case, it was out of your hands because other dogs lunged at your dog.  For those reading this, though, be very careful how and where you socialize your young dogs.  Dog parks are a bad idea because instances like this happen all the time.

Dealing with loose dogs is one of the most difficult things to work on when you’ve got a dog with aggression issues.  Ideally you can train in circumstances where you’ve got control.  When loose dogs are accosting your dog you have no control over the scenario.

With my clients I talk a lot about ‘thresholds’.  What I mean by that is I find most dogs have certain thresholds where the aggression occurs.  For example, some dogs go nuts when they see other dogs at 100 feet.  Or 50 feet, or 300 feet, or wherever.

Wherever your dog’s threshold is, you want to start pushing that threshold.  Get as many repetitions in at 50 feet, then drop it to 30, then to 10, etc.  At these beginning stages we usually just have to avoid loose dogs as best as possible.  We’ve got to get a reliable threshold down to 2 or 3 feet on several occasions before the dog is mentally strong enough to handle a dog coming right up to them.

I know this probably isn’t the answer you were looking for as I’m recommending you just keep your distance from loose dogs until your dog can handle it.  That is easier said than done, you don’t always have control of what dogs are going to rush you.  When I’m working with dogs like yours I do my best to chase off and scare off approaching dogs until the dog has progressed enough to be able to handle it.  Keep pushing that threshold, though, and you’ll be in a position where you don’t have to worry about loose dogs approaching.

In our aggression program I go into video detail about a method I’ve developed called the ‘Step-Back-Recall’ that also does wonders when the dog is going nuts and helps them calm right down.  If any of our clients are looking to upgrade to that program contact our office to get credit of your current program applied to the more advanced program.

Best of luck and happy training.

I Nit-Pick With The Heel Command

When I work with my clients in one on one sessions I often warn them that I’m going to nit-pick them.  I tell them that there are going to be occasions where small little details, that seem insignificant, are going to bring big results.

I often share one of my favorite quotes-

“Little Hinges Swing Big Doors”

What this quote means is that small means are often the answer for completing a big task.

When it comes to a dog heeling properly I’m a nit-picker.

This goes double for dogs with aggression issues or dogs with destruction issues.

When I say that a dog should heel properly I mean that on their walk their shoulder should not be in front of your leg.  They should maintain that position for the majority of the walk unless you are giving a break for going potty or other play time things.

Let me tell you a quick story about a client I had a few years back.

Their dog had aggression issues that included lunging at other dogs, people, cars, etc.  The dog also had a big time issue pulling on the leash.

I took the dog into my ‘boot camp’ (where I keep the dog in my home for a few weeks to get them trained) and got the dog over the issue.  He returned home knowing how to heel properly on leash.

I got a call just a short week or two later from this client telling me that the dog was back at it again, chasing cars, lunging at dogs, etc.

I went to the home to see what was going on.  I noticed that the client was now allowing the dog to walk ahead.  The client was just so thrilled that the dog was no longer pulling that a compromise had been struck where the dog could walk ahead of the owner.

I immediately said that this was a bad idea and we went to work getting the dog to walk by the owner’s side.  What happened?  Immediately when the dog was by the owner’s side there was no more lunging at anything.  The second we allowed the dog to get even a foot ahead he would lunge again at oncoming distractions.

In this case, 12 inches made all the difference in the world; little hinges swing big doors.

Why was this the case, though?  Why did 12 inches mean the difference between a lunging aggressive dog and a dog that walked calmly by the owner’s side?

Simple, you give the dog that 12 inches and now he’s a leader.  You keep him by your side and now he’s a follower.  In this dog’s mind a leader’s job was to lunge, bark, and act aggressively.  A follower’s job was to defer to the owner’s judgement.

I learned a lot from that dog and I’ve applied it since.  I often work with owners whose dogs are dealing with aggression.  Some of these owners report that their dogs walk quite well on leash.  They aren’t right by the owners side paying attention but at least they aren’t pulling up ahead.  Pretty good, right?

In these cases I always tell them the story of the lunging dog and what a difference 12 inches makes.

The same is true for dogs with destruction.  I had a client some years back who had a very destructive, chewing dog.  The dog was being walked daily but he was walking ahead of the owners.  The first thing I had them do was walk the dog properly by their side.

I also gave them several other things to do to fix the chewing and destruction problems.  (I outline all of those in my Manners and Destruction DVD set)

When I came back a few weeks later they reported that they had done none of my list except for having the dog walk properly every day on leash.

Even though they didn’t do any of the homework other than walking, the dog was now no longer destructive.

How could that be, though?

Simple.  The dog was previously getting physical exercise through his daily walks.  He was getting little mental exercise, though.  By having him walk just a couple feet back, next to the owners side, the dog was required to focus heavily during that 45 minutes of walking.  That intense focus wore the dog out and was enough of a change that he stopped his destructive ways.

Do I nit-pick?  Absolutely.  I do it, though, because I know that often changing a dog’s behavior is a series of small changes rather than big, monumental leaps.

How To Fix Child Aggression: Aggressive Dogs With Children

The following is a question from one of our readers:

Okay I’ve watched enough to know- we have inconsistently trained our dog. She is a two year old breeder bought golden doodle.

She was very anxious by five months – though we were very loving with her. She was a huge resource guarder and didn’t like to be touched. We have worked hard with her- I can handle her completely. She is much better at guarding and she has two safe places in the house- places to go where we won’t bother her.

But- now she is so bonded to me- that she growls at my kids and husband if they walk by her while she lying down and recently she began charging my six year old just for walking by.

So I am in that- ready to give her up phase.

I have been putting my body between her and my son and getting her to sit.

Hasn’t stopped her from doing it again later.

She can’t be trusted with him.

So I ordered your DVD and I’m getting the collar- but can you give me some some direction here. So I can safe guard our kids. As I write this she is lying in the room with me, my son tried to approach and she growled at him.

Plus we are not home with our kids all the time. So she needs to respect people- our kids. no matter who is here.

By the way- out of the house she very much wants him in her sight at all times and gets anxious when she can’t see him.

I need a family dog.

We have spent a fortune on trainers- clicker trainer- behavioral therapists and vets. I am done.
This is our last shot.

Help

Key Points For Solving This Aggression Problem:

  • The solution is going to come through obedience training and the dog learning to respect you and the children.
  • Work on core training behaviors; coming when called, walking properly on leash, staying when told.
  • Correct the aggression when it happens.
  • Do things to help the dog bond (both obedience and other motivational techniques like treats)

As you focus on obedience with the dog and with the kids you’ll find the relationship improves.  As you correct the aggression when it comes out you’ll find that the dog realizes that, even when stressed, aggression is not allowed.  As you focus on the bonding aspect you’ll help the dog recover and realize that she’s happy to be around your kids.

Happy training.